“We don’t catch hold of an idea, rather the idea catches hold of us and enslaves us and whips us in to the arena so that we, forced to be gladiators fight for it.”
– Heinrich Heine 1797 – 1858
So says the inscription on the statue of German Poet, Journalist and literary critic, Heinrich Heine, in Berlin, Germany. His words of wisdom have often intrigued me and it was for that very reason that I tracked down his statue, on a recent trip to Berlin.
Why bother to search for a statue, you might say? After all, the Heine statue is a little off the usual tourist path and one has to actively search for it, [and you already know that I was doing just that]. It is because I’ve been fascinated by the liberal, and at times prophetic words, of this free thinking writer and how his words written in the 19th century, became catastrophically true, in the twentieth century. But more about that a little later.
Heine’s statue sits in a small square, fringed with manicured hedges and shady trees, and is a suitable spot to rest and reflect, as Heine did, upon the world, (although I suspect, today’s visitors might update social media, rather than navel-gaze). Whilst mapping out my walking route around Berlin attractions, finding his statue was a short stop before my walking destination – the Pergamon, a Berlin absolute ‘must – see’.
The Pergamon is situated amongst a complex of museums, housed in several palatial buildings on Museum Island. The classic architecture of the museum buildings harkens back to Ancient times and is an excellent visual attraction in itself.
Also in the Museum complex, the monumental Neues Museum, circa 1800’s, contains Ancient art and archeology, whilst Neoclassical art fills the neighbouring and awe-inspiring Altes Nationalgalerie.
But, I am here to see the Pergamon itself, and its jewels in the archaeological crown – one of which is the excavation finds of frieze panels of the Pergamon Altar, reclaimed in archaeological digs, from 1878 to 1886. Disappointingly, for me and future visitors, I find that the Pergamon Altar exhibit is closed for renovation, until 2019. Well, maybe next time.
Nevertheless, I am aware that one ‘altar’ doth the Pergamon, not make. There are other ‘jewels’ to see. Some of the other monolithic exhibits, such as the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate and the Processional Way from Babylon, are overwhelming and to say that is a complete understatement. Just look at them!!!
If you don’t ever get to visit the historic sites of the Middle East yourself, visiting the Pergamon will make you feel like you have!
The exhibits are unlike anything I have seen and are but a small window into the world of ancient civilizations. I am completely gobsmacked by the level of intricate detail and the skills necessary to produce such fine work.
The Museum complex now houses three of the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin’s collections: the Antikensammlung, Vorderasiatisches Museum, and the Museum für Islamische Kunst.
To Plan a visit, go to the Museum website here, and please note there’s an option to purchase a combo ticket, for entry to all three museums, at a discounted price. A good tip to remember is to arrive at the Pergamon around opening time so as to avoid the lengthy queues commonly found, later in the day. I arrived just on opening time, and already the queue to enter took around 20 minutes.
If you decide the queues to the Pergamon are too long on your arrival, the surrounding gardens and Berlin’s Domkirke cathedral are in themselves, a delight to see. The square in front of the Cathedral church is filled with buskers, street artists, and unfortunately, a few less desirable folk angling for the tourist dollar, legally or illegally. Be careful with your money around them.
On my lengthy walk around Berlin, and the Pergamon, I was happy to find Heine, and pondered his thought-provoking words, especially his tragically prophetic line from the 1821 play, Almansor,
“Where they burn books, they will, in the end, burn human beings too.”
Today, as I read a book called Stasiland by Australian author, Anna Funder, and learn of what it was like to live in the GDR, prior to the fall of the infamous Berlin Wall, I remember the inscription on Heine’s statue and ponder more his words, in much the same way as Anna Funder did, in her book:
“Heine, the free thinking poet, would be turning in his grave to see the sort of enslaving and forcing and fighting that has gone on here, under his cold black nose and pigeon shit shoulders.” -Anna Funder in Stasiland.
Have we really learned any lessons?
If you enjoyed reading my Tuesday Travel adventures, and are looking for other Travel themed blogs, you may like to check out:
If you have a blog post on Travel and would like me to add it here, please leave a comment below with your link, so that others can find your post.
Amanda at Something to Ponder About
Heine’s words were prophetic in the truest sense of the word.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, Joseph. One wonders whether Heine foresaw early warning signs or this possibility politically in nineteenth century Prussia/ Germany, or whether it was a commentary on the world itself.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s a practical truth that the seeds of a thing are in the ground long before the thing flowers or gives off fruit. The thing itself can often be understood before it displays itself if we will just look beneath the surface.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ooo. I like the way you phrase that metaphor! If you say the signs are often there if we drill down beneath the surface, would you say these journeys are inevitable, pre-destined almost? Or is there potential for aberrations and deviations ?
LikeLiked by 1 person
I think there must always be opportunity to change, otherwise why hope for a better tomorrow? I believe in destiny not fate. Fate is ineveitable, Destiny has to be embraced. I think the reason most people embrace a dark destiny simply because they are not intentional in avoiding it because they never look to see what lies beneath.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hmmm. You have more clearly enunciated my thinking, Joseph. One has influence over our destiny. Or it could be said that there can be deviations from a destined path, that is potential for change from variables, whereas fate seems a concept beyond one ‘s control, inevitable as you said. Much like the Jews in the war. There was little they could do in the face of the Nazi war machine. Perhaps this might be a good topic for my Proverbial Friday post later published today? Fate versus destiny. I think many people are simply too busy in their life’s to search for deeper meanings in life and especially in the actions of others or political leaders. Insightful journalists/writers of the past, would often promote these messages but I see that journalism today has been radically altered, in its baseline purpose by the quest for higher profits. So we have to dig deeper ourselves, don’t we?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Elie Weisel said we cannot control what others do but we can control our response to it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Absolutely we have choice over our actions and reactions if we so desire. Some feel they have no control especially when emotions are heightened and one reacts simply from the autonomic nervous system, but it is the thought in our head, in the millisecond before that action that dictates how we choose to respond.
LikeLike
And in this world unfortunately it seems that the darkness is the path of least resistance.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Not everywhere Joseph. Only some places and sometimes. Look harder and wider!
LikeLiked by 1 person
A thoughtful and interesting read, Amanda. I’ve never been sure that I would like Berlin, but most people I know who’ve been there were seduced by it and the Pergamon looks like compulsive viewing. How can it be that so much architecture from the Arabic world can be held in a museum? It looks fabulous! Many thanks for sharing. 🙂 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
I wondered the same about these incredible Arabic treasures. I suppose some of the old colonial powers have incredible treasures from past years in their stores. As an Australian from the New World, we just have absolutely nothing to compare to that as the indigenous folk were a nomadic people, due to the pressures of the environment they lived in. I think you should try Berlin. My first visit was merely a stopover, and like others you have spoken to, I was completely seduced by it, and couldn’t wait to get back. There is definitely so much to see. I hope you get there one day. For you, it is so much closer!!!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Berlin has so many historic and cultural sights to offer and we have a vast selection of museums. The Pergamon is definitly my favourite though. The altar is very impressive..
LikeLiked by 2 people
I was impressed whenI saw it too. I was lucky I arrived early before the crowds
LikeLike
I am glad. Even when I was a little girl it used to be my favourite museum in Berlin. I even had a presentation about it in school 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
You are indeed fortunate to have such a high calibre of museums so close to hand
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for this wonderful re-visit to Berlin. We were last there six years ago. I should write more about it on my blog.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Yes you should Peggy! Did you have a published post already? I can link it here if you like?
LikeLiked by 2 people
No current posts about Germany. Any interest in Russia or Iceland?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Of course! That is still a travel theme!! Please share the link!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Here’s one about Iceland’s Golden Circle. https://leggypeggy.com/2018/01/05/touring-icelands-golden-circle/
LikeLiked by 2 people
Okay thanks, Peggy. I will add that asap.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Heine’s “We don’t catch hold of an idea, rather the idea catches hold of us and enslaves us and whips us in to the arena so that we, forced to be gladiators fight for it.” It is very true of the current political situation in the UK!!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Is that right? Are you referring to the Brexit issue?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Indeed I am.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I agree. It is an example of the idea catching hold of the public and enslaving them. What Impacts have you seen of the Brexit decision so far?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Many nasty ones. People becoming emboldened to be openly nasty to immigrants. It has really divided the country. Jobs being lost (many agencies are moving from the UK). Lots of uncertainly which is affecting business investment and sales. Instead of the government putting in place a “soft” Brexit as the leave vote won by a very small margin the extremists seem to have taken over affairs. They got a lot of positive press in the tabloid newspapers. The owners of these newspapers don’t pay tax in the UK and want to avoid the EU new rules on tax that are coming into place at the start of 2019.
LikeLike
Quite an interesting insight into Berlin Amanda. A place I am still yet to see! And thank you for the mention too. Xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
You should definitely add it to your wishlist, Lorelle. The kids might like it too.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Will do Amanda 😉
LikeLike
Beautiful images, wonderful location, Thanks.
Enjoy Your Day outing in bangalore at Meenakshi Resort near Electronic city, Bangalore. We provide Corporate Outings, Destination Wedding & Exciting Adventure Activities.
LikeLike