Numedal Valley

Since medieval times, one of the main routes Traders and Pilgrims used to traverse Norway between Oslo and Bergen, was via the Numedal Valley, which stretches from Kongsberg in the south, to Geilo and the Hardangervidda Plateau, in the North west.

Due to this long history, Numedal has one of Norway’s most concentrated collections of medieval buildings and artefacts, comprising over 40 heritage timber buildings dating from the Middle Ages. www.visitmiddelalderdalen.no

The Norwegian Stabbur
By necessity, Norwegians had to find an effective way to store food over a long harsh winter and designed a uniquely shaped log ‘Stabbur’, or food storage house, that would prevent food from spoiling, or being eaten by mice and rats.


In latter times however, the visitor to the Numedal Valley will find that most of these historic Log buildings have been converted into authentic and traditional guest lodgings.

You can sleep the night in one of these beautiful Stabburs, some which contain walls and everyday objects that have been decorated with the traditional Norwegian Art known as Rosemaling, in a style peculiar to the Numedal Valley.

The highest number of Stabburs of any Norwegian valley are located in Numedal. And if that is not enough medieval history for you, the Valley also is home to no less than four Stave churches.
Rollag Stave Church

The Rollag Stave church is one of the better known Stave Churches in Numedal, but as all are off the main highways, they are a little hard to find. ‘Rollag Stavkirken‘ is located a few kilometres north of the village Rollag, in the Numedal Valley. It was probably originally built in the second half of the 12th century, though not all of it is original.

Initially, the church has been a simple church with a rectangular nave. First mentioned in 1425, it was rebuilt around 1660 into a cruciform church. Around 1760, the church was extended to the west.
Early Rosemaling and Hanseatic Art

The walls of Rollag Stave Church are adorned with fruit and biblical motives, which were painted in 1683, and the forerunner to the more traditional forms of Rosemaling. This was following on from the reformation. The close ties with the Hanseatic countries is exemplified in the religious figures of Mary with child, which originated in the German city of Lubeck, around the 1500’s.

The baptismal font dates from the middle ages whilst the altar dates from 1670. The blue lattice like structure in the left of the above photo is known by the archaic term which translates as: Wife’s or Widow’s ‘cage.’
Shocking as it may seem, women were seen as property in medieval times and as such, if a married Priest passed away, the next Priest assigned to that Parish, would inherit not only the Church and its land, but the Widow and any children as well! Times have changed!

This was a logo I painted and tweaked in a photo editor for my artwork. One of the reasons for visiting Norway in such depth was to study the Norwegian Rosemaling first hand, as inspiration for further artwork and fabric designs.
Forestwood is the name of my website and online shops.

Beautiful cottages
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Thank you 365. I believe there was also a stave church built or maybe transported to Poland!
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Oh yes
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The Polish and Norwegian cultural folk arts appear to have many links
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I think so too
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Gorgeous buildings.
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Thanks for the inspiration. Lately I’ve been surrounded by information about Norway. Must start planning a trip.
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Looks, Peggy. Good! Don’t take a tourist tour though. Hideously expensive. Get a car and drive yourself. Stay in a stabbur!!
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We’ve done a couple of self-drives. It is the way to go.
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You will see a lot more too. I recommend starting at Trondheim, https://forestwoodfolkart.wordpress.com/tag/trondheim/ and then head south through Andalsnes, to Balestrand, Hardanger and the fjord country to Bergen. Then depending on the season, you could take the Norway in the Nutshell route by car or train via Voss and Stalheim (which I have written about here https://forestwoodfolkart.wordpress.com/2019/06/29/on-top-of-the-world-in-norway/ to Oslo. You could even incorporate the Swedish Bohuslan coast which is a 2 hour drive south east from Oslo. Lillehammer is north of Oslo and worth a look if you are intent on seeing snow. Have fun planning.
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Thanks for sharing this Amanda. I’d love to visit Norway. Staying in a stabbur in Numedal Valley sounds really cool. Do you have a direct link to how one can book a stabbur?
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Hi Natalie, I stayed at Nordli farm in Rollag run by Narve Lid. https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/3531319?guests=1&adults=1&source_impression_id=p3_1566805221_ro7PkXqKN0OfY1VP
But you can also stay at Sevletunet – https://sevletunet-guestfarm.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral
And others around Rollag. Some painted inside!! When are you going?
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Thank you for the links, Amanda. I hope to go next year.
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O.o. That is so very exciting. What areas are you planning to visit? Tour or self drive?
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Amazing cottages. It is so nice to back in time! 🙂
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That is a great way to look at it! They are very easy on the eye. Have you been to Norway?
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No I haven’t been unfortunately yet. I’ve seen some impressing sites in Poland though.
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I love visiting Poland! It is a very underrated destination! I’d love to go back there. Did you have a favorite city there?
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I love especially Krakow and 2 hours driving from Krakow, there is also Tatra mountains and picturesque little town called Zakopane.
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Oh I loved Zakopane. And Krakow and Stock as and Gdansk!! https://forestwoodfolkart.wordpress.com/tag/zakopane/
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Amazing post! I love Zakopane so much. One of my favourite places on earth! And I also spend money at this market. Btw. sign was saying
5 zl for photos with sheep with own camera.
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Oops.. ..I didn’t pay the 5 zloty and feel quite bad about that!!! Ignorant Aussie tourist that I am!! Can’t read Polish.
Zakopane is very dear to my heart too. I love the architecture, the scenery, food and culture there. I feel some kind if strong connection to the place. What did you buy at the market?
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I’m sure nobody noticed 🙂 I went there over a year ago and bought beautifully knitted table cover, wooden coasters, piggy bank and ashtray (for a gift). I would love to get more staff. However, just had a hand baggage. Zakopane is a very unique place. Food is amazing, as everything else.
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I bought some of the traditional painted scarf, a beautiful white linen jacket, and a wooden tray with stand so you can have breakfast in bed. Think also some other small wooden objects. I think we both need to take a spare suitcase next time. Did you try the smoked sheep’s cheese?
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I thought about it! Once I just may go there for shopping 🙂 I love their smoked sheep’s cheese!
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It is DElicious! I loved it. I love that you can pull up on a roadside hut and buy it from the person who created it!
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Wonderful, Norway on my bucket lists 🙂 Switzerland we have visited with similar designs of homes etc..
Loved your images and your very informative narration.. ❤ Thank you
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Thank to Sue for your kind comment. I have lots to tell about Norway. yes the designs are similar to that of Switzerland. The Swiss had the ingenious idea of adding a nice balcony, no doubt so they could take on the amazing scenery of the mountains??
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Indeed… 🙂
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Thank you for this beautiful tour so rich in history!
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Thank you Maggie. Nice of you to stop by!! Have you ever been to Norway?
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No, but it looks charming.
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I am slightly obsessed with it!!
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I had a Norwegian pen friend from the age of 13 and we are still in touch today and we have visited each other several times and toured parts of Norway together so this post brought back some fond memories.
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Wow. That is lovely to hear that you have kept in touch all those years, Marion. What part of Norway did the penfriend live?
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She lived for many years in a small town called Ski, 30 minutes south of Oslo but now lives a little closer to the capital. We last saw each other 7 years ago when I visited for a few days with my younger son.
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So nice to have a friendship that had endured for so long. I too had Norwegian penfriends in the days when one wrote letters and have visited many of them. It was a very special experience! Something I would never had had as a tourist.
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Great scenery
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Thanks Sue!! Is touring Norway on the agenda?
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Sadly, not!
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Oh but … the wife could be old, fat and grumpy !!!! [grin]
What IS a stave church, pray …?
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The wife wasn’t like the fairy tale version M-R!! Lol! A Stave church is a type of Norwegian architecture from the close of the Viking age – around 1100. A stave is a short wooden planks, a bit like shingles but thinner and more rectangular. The building itself has a central post and the stave hang on the outside with not a single nail used in the construction. Think Lord of the Rings or do a quick Google search. There are only 28 left in Norway from many hundreds in years gone by, as some have burnt down. Some satanic nutters took to deliberately burning them down at one point in their sick rituals.
The churches are really beautiful.
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It’s said we must have the dark side of humanity to offset the light. Why it has to be offset is beyond me.
Thanks for this, Amanda – I had thought of a stave as being a sort of post with a sharp end !
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The Yin and Yang – dark and light; sun and moon. Very true M-R.
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I would love to stay in one of those lodges..
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You can!!
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Thanks for taking me to Norway Amanda 🙂
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So you liked the trip to Viking land, Bushboy?
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Oh yes I did 🙂
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I hope to share more soon. It is a shame it is so far for us to travel. Do you think you might travel there one day?
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That will be good to see a bit more Amanda 🙂 I would but I have so much I want to do travelling. Norway (Scandinavia) is on the list it is just the funds that will stop me doing all the places in this world I want to go to
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Tell me about it busyboy. It takes the better part of a week for me to go there and back with time differences and layovers. So there is the time factor as well as the cost. It makes Australians contemplate visitng a lot of destinations when we actually get over there to make the trek worthwhile.
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My next European trek will be for 3 months. Mt bestie has family stuff she wants to do and I guess I’ll be pressured by mine to do some genealogy too
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That sounds awesome! What is your heritage, if I may ask?
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That is why I need to get things sorted. Perhaps Irish, perhaps Scottish, maybe a mix of Italian and Spanish. 4th Generation Australian but who knows
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There’s so much history that’s a closed book to me. Norway is as unknown a place to me as many places on the other side of the globe. Your post reveals how much there is to find out and appreciate. And if you squeezed me hard enough, I’m sure some Norwegian blood from way in the past would drip out.
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I love anyplace that has Rosemaling. It’s my favorite art form. I love all your photos and would so love the chance to visit. It’s on my list and I’ll let you know if it goes from possibility to probability.
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I didn’t know that you were such a big fan of Rosemaling, Marlene. But I am very happy to know that you know it and appreciate it. If you don’t ever get to Norway, you can always travel through my posts. I will try to share more of these special places in Norway in anyhow near future with you in mind. Much love and hugs, Amanda
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I love the look of those Scandinavian-area structures! That’s the other part of my ethnic heritage (Teutonic, in my case) that I need to study more.
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Welcome fellow Teuton! I knew we had some kind of ancestral connection! Do you know what area you hailed from?
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I don’t know specifically. My maternal grandfather was a 2nd or 3rd generation German-American. While I’ve done plenty of research on my father’s side of the family, I sadly haven’t been able to learn much about my mother’s side. That’s yet another project I have to pursue in this lifetime!
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Some German records are hard to come by if those records were destroyed in the war. I find Myheritage was useful for sourcing records in some parts of Europe. Even Ancestry – while expensive is useful. I am planning to do more family history when I retire. But for now, I peek a little into the programs and their “matches” that they email me, from time to time. I cannot find info on two of my lines as there is no parents listed for Gr GR Grandfather and maternal grandfather and maternal grandmothers’ family. Frustrating it is. Have you looked into the free trials they have with those programs?
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My father had been using Ancestral Quest and archives from a local chapter of the U.S. Mormon Library, which maintains a comprehensive database of genealogical records.
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Oh yes the Mormons have extensive records!! A good source!!
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Those buildings, wow! This place looks amazing.
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Norway if full of surprises like this, Susie! Have you any connection with Norway?
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No connection but I would love to visit the country, especially based on this! 🙂
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I can recommend it to you, Susie. There is nothing like it, despite what the ads say! Do you travel often?
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Oh it looks so peaceful and relaxing, Amanda! And also interesting due to all those medieval huts 🙂
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You would love it Pooja. I think to could get a ferry there from Poland??
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I know there’s a ferry to Sweden from Gdansk but I am not sure about Norway. It is one of those countries that I’d love to do a road trip on! I have heard from so many well-traveled people that it’s one of the most beautiful countries that they’ve ever visited 🙂
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Yes. I think you might have to change ferries in Copenhagen or perhaps there is one going to Kristiansand from Kiel? Going via Sweden is also possible but much longer I think as you would have to take a train to Gothenburg and change to a second train to Oslo. The Copenhagen – Oslo ferry might be nice as it enters the Oslo fjord ar the end and you can sail overnight. It follows the Swedish coast. Having said that, you can see a lot along the way if you go by train. Or of course you could fly. I flew back from Oslo to Berlin, so that is another option, only on reverse. Is Berlin closer than Gdansk to Lodz? I must post about a few more destinations in Norway as I have been to a variety of places there and it seems like it is a country many folks are interested in visiting. Do you have upcoming holidays, Pooja?
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I am postponing visits to all the expensive and comfortable European destinations for my later years! Right now I want to travel to tropical locations where I can scuba dive, be by the sea and what not. I am going to Nepal in October, Amanda! And to Thailand for some 10 days 🙂 After working for a whole year without break, I am sooo looking forward to it!
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That makes sense, Pooja. It is a pity you can’t take another flight. We are only 9 hours from Thailand. 😏
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Australia is so big and far from everywhere! It’s hard for me to get used to that concept after living here in Europe for so many years.
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Tell me about it!!! It makes it so expensive and takes so long to travel anywhere overseas.
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Stunning photo-travel essay!
It seems to be a common theme in many cultures of old that women have such diminished status in society. One of those peculiar universal practices that seems to transcend place.
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Unfortunately that is so historically. But things are changing and dinosaur like attitudes fading away.
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Many thanx for your info, photos and history on Numedal Valley. Those Stabburs were really interesting– both in function and shape.
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Aren’t they beautiful, Loujen? Too think there was on be so many of them and the Stave churches. History sometimes reveals more about our ancestors lives than we thinking might.
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wonderful place – and I am glad times have changed and women are no longer property
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All females are!!
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I know – and it was obvious – but I still had to say it (but you know – maybe one or two females would not mind – I mean maybe….)_
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Oh gosh, Yvette. Those women disrespect themselves!!
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I agree
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Fascinating! I’d love to spend the night there too. I wonder if I may inquire about the dapper gentleman with the camera in the doorway. Did he come with you? 😉
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I see you spotted the nice Norwegian man. He was our tour guide at the Stave Kirke, Manja. I believe he might have been the owner of the Stabbur too!
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I found this fascinating. It was all new to me – but love how there’s a practical side to the architecture, I suppose there needs to be. As for a wife being passed to the next priest…well… Thanks for introducing me to something completely new.
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No problem, Joanne. Glad to spread some awareness of history. Do you have any Norwegian heritage? Many Americans have a little.
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No, none. I’m about 4th generation Australian on both sides with English/Scottish prior to that. I find the history fascinating though – especially in regards to crossovers with the Scots.
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Ok. Me I am Aussie 8th gen; Scandinavian, European and English!! A mix!! They are loads of crossovers with Scottish/Norwegian cultural practices that stem back to Viking ages.
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It’s all very cool. My husband is Scottish & we’ve just sent our DNA thingies away to see what else is in there…
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That is exciting! Three is always a surprise on the DNA outcomes, it seems.
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What a great post. So much to see in one post!
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Thank you! Har du aldrig besøkte Numedal?
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I read your informative post with great interest. We haven’t been to Numedal Valley yet, and we will. Travelling abroad and exploring the culture and history of other European countries has been the focus all these years. We forgot that the spectacular landscapes from different parts of Norway is a treasure itself.
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Isn’t it strange that this is often the case when we are choosing Vacations, Isabelle? That is, we often choose something far away and slightly foreign to us, something with perhaps the weather or atmosphere that we want to experience. And yet, right outside our door, there are places just as enjoyable. Sometimes I think I should travel overseas while I can and when I am old, and have less money/more health issues, I will travel more locally. Does that factor into your planning?
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I resonate with your thoughts. I’d rather have adventures when I’m young. I love wandering in streets and mountains and along beaches, it requires a good portion of energy. When I’m old, I think I would enjoy a walk in a neighbouring town, and then sit under a huge oak tree with a couple of tea on the bench, recollecting and feeling all these good moments…
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A cup of tea and pensive sittings. Sounds like you and I also have that in common. Tea is a meditative drink, I think.
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Beautiful place Norway. Waiting for more articles like this.
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Hey! Thanks for stopping by. I do plan to write lots more on Norway. Right now, I am working on an article on Holmenkollen.
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very interesting, you learn something new about Norway, nearly every day, thanks
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There is lots to learn, Bw. Where do you read a lot about Norway?
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i am reading Karl Ove Knausguard and other writers, it contrasts with the smash and run stories that are so prevalent in much of literature,
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Scandi writers offer a much more fulfilling experience to the reader. I have read ones of his novels. Is it the story of the boy and his father through life?
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there are six books in his struggle, but it’s the pace and simplicity that makes it, cheers, you will enjoy them all..
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I read the one where his father ultimately passed away. I wonder which novel that was, in the series?
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That’s the first one i think, He goes back and forth as the memory bank allows, his books are a treatise on Norway and how we see the world, the rest of us, amen
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It is funny. I liked that Novel but I want sure where he was going with the story. He does write really well though.
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His struggle is a journey, this is what he is trying to get across, don’t box yourself in as they say, amen
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Ok. And aren’t we all on a journey through life?
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we are, but the more we know ourselves, the less likely we are to take our problems with us..
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