Hand Painted Flower – DIY Dry Brush / Overlay Technique- Free Pattern

A quiblog pictures 004ck but effective way to decorate a small object is by painting a simple garland of hand-painted flowers. “Oh! But I am not a painter I hear you say!!” Well, that’s ok, because you don’t need any specific skills for this technique. It is VERY forgiving! And it does not have to be perfect.

1. First, download the image of the flower in the garland below, and print it from your computer, or if you feel particularly competent,  hand draw on tracing paper.

2. Copy the image using  chalk or pencil or  transfer paper,  on card, fabric, or a paper mache/wooden box that  has already been prepared with 1-2 coats of a suitable acrylic background paint. I use a transfer paper in light or dark shades according to the colour of the background paint. ( light on dark backgrounds, vice versa on light backgrounds)

3. Using your chosen dark colour, (in the example: Paynes Grey/Dark Blue) stroke in the petals with shape-following/comma strokes, beginning at the outside of the flower and pulling the strokes towards the centre, using a synthetic/sable round brush in size 3 or 4, depending on how big you want the petals.

*If you know how to do ‘comma’ strokes, use them, but a fine tapered tip near the centre of the petal is not necessary. So don’t stress. If you need more help in forming the strokes: see linked articles below.

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4. Load a round or filbert synthetic brush (hogs hair or sable brushes don’t work so well here), with Warm White, or a light contrasting colour.

NB: In this technique, you do not wet the brush, or if you do dip it in the water jar, squeeze out most of the moisture, on some kitchen paper towel.

5. Begin to gently stroke in some colour, on top of the already existing blue colour, pulling just the top half of the brush over each petal, starting at the outer edge. Lift off completely before reaching the end of the petal, so that the darker blue colour will still show towards the centre. The dark colour then acts as your shadowed area, and the white is the highlighted area of the petal. This gives your flower more of a three-dimensional look.

6. Continue adding layers of warm white in this dry brush technique until you are happy with the effect.

Caution: It is always easy to dry brush additional highlight into the petals, if there is not enough, however, removing it if you have put on too much to begin with is extremely difficult and messy. **** If this happens, just re-do your basecoat of dark blue again, and start from #4.

7. If need be, use a brighter white, in an even smaller area near the very edge of the petal, to create ever more of a highlight.  Watch the leaf that has the turn-back, as this leaf will be in more shadow than the others, and as such, still retains most of the blue shade. flowercentre

8. Paint the centre with a ‘stipple’ effect, in a c shape, leaving the centre in the dark blue colour. The highlight colours I used include: gold oxide, yellow and white on the very highest edge. The ‘stipple’ effect is sort of like dot, dot dotting, the colour in just with the very tip of the brush. You can use an older brush for this, or a round hogs hair brush, as it is not so imperative to have a fine point.

In this example, I also used the same dry brush technique for painting the leaves: Using a pine green colour for the base, and adding progressively more yellow to the green to get a lighter colour, using this as my dry brushed highlight.

Related Articles:

how-to-paint-comma-strokes-beginner-folk-art-painting-tutorial/

Flower

Image of pencil outline adapted from V. Phelps, FADP.

Poofy Cheeks

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Faux Finish – Marble DIY Tutorial

blog pictures 019Ever wanted marble but could not afford it?

You can with this simple faux finish.

 

 

This project was originally a Dutch traditional painting with a dark orange background and the colours I had chosen, just weren’t working. So I revamped the project and decided to opt for something very simple like this:

 

 

To create your own faux marble finish:

1. Timber or MDF piece, sealed and prepped with a dark orange brown background paint.

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2. Mix a light green colour with some cream yellow, dark green, and white if necessary.

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3. Base coat over the top with the *light grayish green, and while wet, wet a sponge and pat over the piece. Note that this picture does not really show the correct colour.

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4. Lay a piece of kitchen or Glad wrap over the top and stretch and move around, then scrunching in a ball and dab it over the surface. This will lift some of the light green coat, revealing some of the background underneath in a haphazard way, that looks natural.

5. Dab on some light yellow and dark green, and even a little  Prussian blue on different sections of the damp sponge and pat here and there over the surface.

6. Use the scrunched glad wrap ball to soften any harsh lines from the sponge. You want it to blend gradually.

 

5. Dab on some light yellow and dark green, and even a little  Prussian blue on different sections of the damp sponge and pat here and there over the surface.

6. Use the scrunched glad wrap ball to soften any harsh lines from the sponge. You want it to blend gradually.

7. Let dry

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8. Drag a feather through warm white acrylic colour and pull across surface in wavy lines to simulate the cracks of colour in marble.

I used one from my pet cockatoo. ( NOte: It had fallen out, I did not pull it out!!!)

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You can also use a fine liner brush if you don’t have a feather.blog pictures 013

 

9. Soften with a mop brush or scrunched wrap ball if necessary.

* I don’t use retarder, which extends the open time of the paint, but if you are having trouble with it drying before you can manipulate the finish with the glad wrap ball, then either mix retarder into the surface of the light green paint, use retarder on the sponge as you paint.

Now you can decorate the rest of the project. Varnish as desired in the usual way. I use either spray or brush on.

N. B. If you want to decorate on top of the marble faux finish, a protective coat of sealer/clear glaze medium is advised.

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The completed faux marble finish

I will continue a tutorial on decorating the outer rim next time. Any questions, don’t ponder,  just ask!

 

Hindeloopen painting -a Traditional Decorative Art

 
 
 
Hindelooper art is a type of traditional decorative painting originated in the northern province of Friesland, The Netherlands.
 
It is a form of folk art painted by the maritime community of Hinderloopen, (a small town on the Zuiderzee). During times of bad weather when there was no fish to sell, sailors/fisherman would turn to painting as a way to pass the time and make some money.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hindeloopen sailors traded with other Hanseatic league member countries – especially Norway, and often brought home objects painted in other traditional styles that had developed from the Baroque  art, primarily Norwegian Rosemaling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The presence of these styles in the community, in turn, influenced the development of the Hinderlooper’s own village painting, until it evolved into the Hindeloopen art that we see today. The following pieces are my interpretation of Hindeloopen, inspired by the Australian artist, Heleen Van de Haar.
 
 
HIndeloopen Mangle Tray
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I have been painting Hindeloopen style of painting and only recently discovered an old family link to Friesland. NO wonder I was attracted to this elegant and very relaxing style of traditional painting.  Traditionally it was the men who did the painting in the village itself, but I so enjoy it. Perhaps the women were so busy with domestic chores they had little time for painting, and it was the men who were stuck ashore in times of bad weather that had time on their hands to create and decorate.

I will include a tutorial on Hindeloopen in the coming months. Something for those interested in traditional art, to ponder about…

Related Articles:

History of Hindeloopen

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Tutorial on How to paint a timber/woodgrain Faux Finish in acrylic paint

There are lis this MDF ( manufactured fibreboard) or timber: can you tell the difference?ots of supplies of MDF in all shapes and sizes, suitable for craft projects. But MDF lacks the wonderfully warm look of a grained timber piece, don’t you think?

 In olden times, craftsmen would enhance poor quality timber with a painted finish to simulate more expensive materials eg. Intarsia, faux marbling.  Hence Faux finishes were born and can be a valuable technique to add to your artistic repertoire.  I will show you a simple tutorial to create a faux timber grain on MDF.

Supplies:

Acrylic Base paint as a primer/undercoat in orange/light brown shade
(I used Matisse Haymarket)
Kleister medium ( I use Jo Sonja’s)
Retarder medium
Acrylic gouache in various colours:
Yellow oxide
Brown Earth
Indian Red oxide
Foam brush
Dustpan or very wide stiff bristle brush

Clear glaze medium/spray fixative or varnish to finish.

 Technique:

1. Base paint the object with Haymarket or chosen yellow-orange shade. Let dry.
2. Sand lightly using 400- 600 grade sandpaper.

3. Prepare a paint palette with separate dobs of Yellow oxide, Brown earth, and Indian red, and one could even try a dash of black or burnt sienna. ( It is all a matter of personal preference)

4. Add some kleister medium but do not mix the colours and medium- just leave them on the palette in separate spots.

5. Dress the foam brush in retarder and coat the wooden piece lightly.

6. Dip the foam brush in the Kleister medium and then dip each corner of the foam brush in to the individual colours. I use Yellow oxide one side, Brown earth in middle and a little of the indian red or black on the opposite end of the foam brush. ( the colours will gently intermix on the piece. Kleister medium will help cement the pattern on the piece and prevent over blending of colours.

Loading the foam brush wiht the colours

7. Drag the brush across the piece in the one direction, repeating as necessary.

( Use mainly one colour on the foam brush eg: brown earth and a tiny amount of yellow oxide)

To achieve a really soft uniform timber-like grain: Lightly drag a dustpan or wide stiff bristle brush in one direction over the piece.

Hint: Don’t over do it. Less is more!!! If you have gone over too heavy, or don’t like it, wipe  off with a damp cloth and start again. The retarder will c

reate a longer open time with the acrylic paint, giving you more time to play with the pattern and colours, before they dry.

You can then give the completed piece a coat of either varnish to protect it or if you wish to add further decorative touches, use spray fixative or Jo Sonja’s clear glaze medium to give it a barrier coat. This means if you make a mistake and need to wipe out your decorative embellishment, it will not take all your lovely faux finish with it.

Now I will ponder over what particular type of decoration I shall paint it with… thinking traditional Hindeloopen with dark green trim…..updates to come…