One attraction that everyone comes to see in Trondheim, Norway, is Nidaros Cathedral and yet it is the nearby Værnes church in Storjdal that, for me, holds more fascination, at least in a historical sense.
Not only does the Værnes Church have a purpose-built ‘Weapons House,’ that dates back to Viking times, but you get to see Viking age architecture in regular daily use and see some of Scandinavia’s earliest church frescoes.
In the 11th Century, any self respecting, newly Christianized, Viking carried with them a range of knives, axes and other paraphernalia used in defence, and weapons such as these were banned from Church. When the Priest really wanted the new Christians to attend Church, he had to provide a purpose built structure to safely lock up any instruments of death. And so the Weapons House was built. Ten centuries on, I believe the ‘House,’ now accommodates nothing more deadly than a garden hoe or lawn cutter. [Watch out for your toes].
The interior of the church takes the visitor straight back to the 11th Century and is every bit as unique as the Weapon House. The roof trusses, pictured below, span 11 metres and are completely original. This is Viking carpentry at its finest and it is the only original roof of its type, still in existence. Notably, the trusses were used as a design template in reconstructing the roof of Nidaros cathedral and Håkonshall in Bergen.
What you see above you, at Værnes, is what a Viking saw ten centuries ago.
A raised and carved chair (c 1685), see above, was constructed as the private pew of General Von Schultz, the local Squire. It makes me slightly recoil to tell you this but, the wooden lattice ‘cage’ below was for the wives to sit, ( either Von Schultz or the Pastor’s wife. It is embarrassingly even referred to as a ‘wife’s cage.’ Awful, I know, but that is history.
Faces carved into the interior of this elevated chair are thought to depict the face of Von Schultz, but no one is quite sure of that. To me, some of them more resembled a gargoyle or the “north wind.”
The wall mural pre-dates the carved pulpit and is also original. Echoes of a world now past.
A fresco on the wall that looks like a hood from a pulpit remains a mystery to historians. The meaning and significance of this symbol has been lost.
Threatened by the Nazis during the war years, with their intensive infrastructure plans for a military base and airport, at Trondheim, Værnes Church survived and is still used for church services today. In fact, the church is so popular for baptisms and weddings, it is booked out many months and sometimes, years in advance.
Make a small detour from Værnes Lufthavn, (Trondheim airport), to Stjørdal, in Norway and you can walk the path of history.
Værnes Kirke is an important link to the past and something to ponder about. Linking to Jo’s Monday Walks – a tad earlier
A great post and how lovely Norway is.
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Thank you Gerard!
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fascinating
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Reblogged this on Windows into History (Reblogs and News) and commented:
Suggested reading – a fascinating article about the oldest church in Norway. Reblogged on Windows into History.
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I adore frescoes. I appreciate this contribution Amanda. A very educational post for me and my readers 🙂
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Thank you. I hope they find it interesting
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What a lovely old church! Frescoes are wonderful 🙂
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They are often like a book from pre writing times. I appreciate your comment. Thanks so much.
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It seems such a beautiful and serene location. I wonder if air planes pass above it. Could make a nice photo.
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The runway comes in over the fjord, Manja, which lies in the opposite direction away from the church. I am certain there would be some drone footage somewhere, though.
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I was imagining a photo of a huge plane just above the church, taken from the ground. 🙂 I used to go to the end of the Ljubljana airport strip just to watch the planes land.
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Oh I could imagine that, Manja. The contrast between the very ancient and the new! There is always photoshop???? Just for fun…
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I may never visit Norway (or anywhere outside the Americas or Caribbean) so thanks you for sharing the photos!
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My pleasure. I have loads to share on Norway.
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Wonderful! Thanks!
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Thanks for Linking Jo, this was a second walk through I took on my second trip to Trondheim which I first visited in 2015.
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